Blend of cultures, eras, and styles hits Paris Fashion Week

The luxury world witnessed an eclectic mix of contrasts on a rain-soaked Saturday at Paris Fashion Week, where the bold energy of punk blended with understated luxury and classic beauty. The boundaries between revolt and refinement were blurred in the displays, which featured collections that traveled through time and embraced minimalist aesthetics reminiscent of the 1990s as well as a modern take on medieval serfs. 

Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, a French designer, showcased her latest interpretation of leather's limitless potential on the Parisian runway on Saturday, bringing explorations of "quiet luxury" a term closely associated with her time at Hermes front and center once again. 

This season, however, the narrative took a darker, more introspective turn, with brooding black leathers that evoked the deep, reflective tones of the late French painter Soulages. 

These pieces, gleaming against the backdrop of a black starry night, sometimes adopted a fierce demeanor, reminiscent of studded, armor-like vests. Yet, this undercurrent of fierceness was masterfully balanced with the inherent softness of the collection’s cuts and the meticulous precision of its detailing. 

Nipped buckles and gentle ribbing on skin-tight pants demonstrated Vanhee-Cybulski’s adeptness at blending Hermès’ storied craftsmanship with innovative design. Amidst this darker palette, muted flashes emerged, weaving poetically through the collection. This emphasis on restrained elegance is quintessential to Vanhee-Cybulski’s vision, where the opulence of materials and craftsmanship triumphs without need for ostentation. 

Braving the persistent Parisian drizzle, K-pop star Sandara Park led the pack at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, captivating the audience in a punk-tinged corset adorned with pearls and brandishing a “Noblesse” sign to the flurry of camera flashes. The show started with an eccentric performance in the brightly lit atrium, where musicians conjured natural sounds amid tree stumps, setting a whimsical tone that mirrored the collection’s historical and rebellious spirit. 

The opening ensembles transported the audience back in time amid contemporary fusions, channeling the essence of a serf, the medieval agricultural laborer. The designs cleverly incorporated leggings, jockstraps resembling codpieces, mystical talismanic pendants, and tear-shaped cutouts on thick knit sweaters that conjured up tales of yore. 

Both male and female models strutted with a swagger, embodying the iconic Westwood 80s punk ethos through standout pieces like a large blue conical bra corset and garments with assertively large shoulders. The runway was a canvas for eccentric, eye-catching looks that melded contrasting historical references like one silver top with a a breastplate that evoked King Arthur and his knights with a disco sheen also reminiscent of Britain’s Glam Rock heyday. 

This collection, a blend of audacious punk spirit and a nod history, reaffirmed the brand's mastery in fusing diverse influences, crafting rebellion throughout. 

Carven was nevertheless characterized by elegant refinement, minimalism, and a trace of nonchalance. Since its 2009 and 2018 reboots, the illustrious home which Marie Louise Carven created in 1945 has undergone changes guided by a number of male creative directors. Louise Trotter, the brand's first female CEO since its revival, introduced her second collection on Saturday, deftly fusing the brand's 1950s heritage with a minimalist style evocative of the 1990s. 

A statement piece that set the tone for the presentation was a loose-fitting brown coat with round shoulders, which represented the new direction Trotter is taking Carven in. 

The foundation for a collection with dimensions and senses was laid by this piece. An eye-catching outfit with a trompe l'oeil illusion that was artfully created to look two-dimensional. An oversized gray jacket, casually draped over bare skin, was a prime example of the collection’s subtle allure, revealing skin in a way that did not compromise on sophistication.